M Waterfront Grille: Meal with a view

Restaurant: M Waterfront Grille
Address: 4300 Gulf Shore Blvd., Naples
Phone: 239-263-4421
Web site: www.mwaterfrontgrille.com

Recommended by: Cheryl Turner, John R. Wood Realtors. Turner brings clients to this restaurant because of the good service and its convenient location. “It's in the middle of everything,” she says.

Reservations: Necessary during the busy winter tourism season.

Parking: Tight in winter season, but valet parking is available. Give yourself extra time to arrive during peak season from December to April. You can stroll the neighboring shops at Venetian Village if you have time to spare.

One-hour lunch test: Immediately attentive service. Lunch was served within 20 minutes of our seating and we were finished within the hour.

Privacy: The dining room is open, but the tables have enough separation so you can't overhear the conversation at the next table. For greater privacy, try the booths in the corner. Service was efficient and waiters didn't interrupt unless it was necessary. While you may run into people you know, it isn't located in the central business district, so you're less likely to run into local business executives.

Ambiance: Although it's on Gulf Shore Boulevard near the beach, the clientele is sophisticated and the restaurant isn't too noisy to drown out conversations. While the view of Naples Bay is stunning, there is a glare and some heat when you sit next to the windows overlooking the water. Consider the inside tables if you're sensitive to light.

Food: M Waterfront Grille has some creative flair but doesn't go overboard with its continental cuisine. Your best bet is to stick with the salads, such as the traditional cold-water lobster salad or the summer strawberry chopped salad, both light but satisfying. Heartier fare includes a steak and mozzarella sandwich and New England lobster roll. Like most upscale Naples restaurants, prices are higher than other areas of the Gulf Coast. Recently, lunch for three people cost more than $100.

Ownership: Formerly called Maxwell's on the Bay, owners Peter and Christopher Sereno renovated the restaurant in 2008 to a more contemporary style. The brothers have owned the restaurant for about 25 years. The current chef is Brian Roland, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who has worked for renowned chef Daniel Boulud in Manhattan.

Review Date: July 2011